Vanity for sanity

On Saturday, February 26, 2022 by Mehrin

Recently came across a theory of negative feedback. In the human body, this applies to immune system as it responds to some internal distress in order to facilitate healing. For example, when we catch an infection, the body tries to kill the bacteria or virus by raising the body temperature. So when we take medications to decrease the fever, the immune system is prevented from carrying out its natural function and perhaps gets kind of demotivated in the long run.

I guess the skin cannot do much to help itself, as the external factors it is exposed to are controlled by the environment and climate. It may not be too far stretched to say that, we might help it heal itself by keeping it happy. So even short term regular fixes like keeping it hydrated may possibly help it to adapt or recuperate. How far one is willing to go down that path is a matter of personal choice. 


There are overlapping skin concerns, causalities and cures. Take for example the most common ailment - acne - it could be a pimple, boil, abscess, papule, pustules, etc. The cause seems to be hormonal changes that cause excess oil production that in turn clogs up pores and causes bacterial growth. Usually this is followed by resulting scars. Different cures address different sets of issues in this chain. Self care at home can target removal of excess oils. Over-the-counter acne medications help kill bacteria or reduce oil on your skin. Oral or topical antibiotics reduce inflammation and kill the bacteria that cause pimple. There are also professional procedures available such as Photodynamic therapy , Dermabrasion and chemical peel.  Hormonal therapies are available too

My point is, it is a web of intertangled causes, and names too! So there are a lot of 'possible' solutions. I tried to make sense of the ingredients based on their functions, and took the notes below to help me to chose products. 
For skin, the natural processes are occurring in a continuous cycle and so a sequential treatment is not possible. Rather, the treatment course has to be simultaneously revive - encourage cell turnover,  help dead cells fall off, replenish - supply building blocks so that new skin is well formed, rejuvenate - address specific issues like dark spots and chafed skin, and finally retain the improved look by preventing further damage. 

Revive

Collagen production decreases with age, contributing to skin wrinkling and sagging. 

Better to apply at night so that ingredients can work while you sleep. Use sunscreen at daytime when using these.

  • Retinoid, Vutamin A
    • deficiency gives rise to xerosis (abnormally dry skin) and follicular hyperkeratosis (rough, cone-shaped, elevated papules).
    • improve skin's texture and tone by increasing cell turnover and lightening dark spot
    • work deep in the skin’s dermis layer to stimulate collagen and elastin production
    • conversion steps : retinyl esters > retinol > retinaldehyde > retinoic acid 
    • Retinol is 20 times less potent than tretinoin 
    • Retinoic Acid  
      • pure form that your skin can utilize
      • most potent and most widely investigated 
      • Tretinoin cream 0.02% is now recognized by the FDA for the treatment of photoaging.
      • up to 8-12 weeks to notice results for acne, longer for anti aging
    • Adapalene 
      • synthetic retinoid that does not need to be converted to retinoic acid
      • Differin 0.1% Adapalene Acne Treatment Gel - only over the counter prescription strength retinoic acid (RA)
      • treats acnes, potential improvement for aging/photoaging. 
    • Retinal / retinaldehyde
    • Do not use with AHA/BHA, Benzoyl Peroxide or Vit C

  • Vitamin C, L/Ascorbic Acid
    • Boosts collagen production at 15-20% AA form
    • easily oxidizes in light, heat, pH change, and presence of other other ions. 
    • Wash with AHA/BHA to lower skin pH for better absorption
    • Stability and absorption enhanced by Ferulic acid and Vit E
      • SkinCeuticals - Luxury but only tested form
      • Timesless 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum
    • tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate - stable lipid soluble forms with potential  (http://dermtalkdocs.com/2020/10/07/all-about-vitamin-c-in-skincare/)

  • Bakuchiol
    • derived from the seeds and leaves of Eastern Asia’s ‘babchi’ plant (or psoralea corylifolia) used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine.
    • retinol-like regulation of gene expression
    • antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties 

  • Snail Mucin
    • humectant
    • induce cell proliferation 
    • high molecular weight peptides that encourage wound healing and tissue repair 
    • contains allantoin, collagen, elastin, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, and natural antibacterial 

Exfoliate

Skin naturally renews itself every 28 days. As we age, this process slows down, and when dead skin cells start to pile up, your skin starts to look dull, rough and dry. Chemical exfoliators dissolve dead cells allowing new cells to surface.
  • Urea 10-25%
    •  keratolytic agent - breaks down the protein keratin in the outer layer of your skin. 
    • Easily penetrates skin barrier,  penetration enhancer
    • Can be used with Retinoid
    • Psoriasis, eczema, scaliness , but not rosacea
    • Nails, toe nails fungus
    • Do not combine with fragrant (including essential oils) ingredients - develop allergy
    • Eucerin Smoothing Face Cream 5% Urea 50ml - lightweight
    • Zeroid Richenic cream urea 5% https://amzn.to/33rrauy (Korea)
    • Sukoyaka Suhada urea moisture lotion https://amzn.to/3BmxDTY (fruit extract - antioxidant, soy, licorice extract), almost watery
    • Sukoyaka Suhada Massively Skin Urea Moisturizing Cream https://amzn.to/3oOk6iP - heavier for hand

  • Urea 40%
    • Keratosis Pylorisis - at 40-50% concentration, dissolves stuck on dead cells
    • Kerasal Intensive Foot Repair, Skin Healing Ointment for Cracked Heels and Dry Feet

  • Alpha, Beta and Poly Hydroxy Acid 
    •  Glycolic (AHA, water soluble)  
      • smallest molecule, most potent 
      • helps with collagen
      • Pixi Skintreats Glow Tonic Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Toner - 5% GA
    • Citric acid (AHA, water soluble)
    • Lactic acid (AHA, water soluble)
      • evens skin tone
      • 5% only reach the epidermis 
      • 12% concentrations reach dermis, the skin gets firmer and thicker. As a result, there is an overall smoother appearance and fewer fine lines and deep wrinkles
        • AmLactin 12 % Moisturizing Lotion
      • DON’T USE WITH: Other acids and exfoliants like AHAs or benzoyl peroxide. Retinol should be avoided as well.
      • The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2%, with purified Tasmanian pepperberry to reduce signs of inflammation and sensitivity
    • Mandelic acid(AHA, fat soluble))
    • Salicylic Acid (BHA, fat soluble) 
      • maybe more suitable for darker skin
      • helps unclog pores 
      • present in willow bark
      • Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
    • Lactobionic acid (PHA)
      • for supersensitive skin
      • Neutrogena Stubborn daily cleanser  (2% GA + 1% LA + 2% PHA)

Replenish

  • Niacinamide, Vitamin B3
    • water soluble, skin PH 
    • Research in its early stages
    • helping the skin build proteins (ceramides?) and lock moisture
    • regulate oil production
    • skin brightening
    • anti-inflammatory - treatment for acne
    • found in many foods including meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals
    • 2-5%
    • Has overlapping benefits with Vit C but can be complimentary as they address issues by different mechanisms
    • Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum- ultra-lightweight, Amino-Peptide Complex II, Panthenol
    • CeraVeResurfacing Retinol Serum w/ retinol, ceramide, licorice root
  • Ceramide
    • fatty acids, fats or lipids that make up 30% to 40% of your outer skin layer
    • prevent skin from dryness and infection.
    • Deficiency disorders:  Atopic dermatitis or eczema (red and itchy skin), Ichthyosis (dry and rough like fish scales), Dry skin
    • skin care products with anti-inflammatory and penetration-enhancing agents can improve the absorption of ceramides
    • not very stable, should be in airless pump container
    • there are 12 types of ceramides
    • synthetic ceramides are more commonly used in skin care products
    • it's important to choose the right product depending on your skin type


  • Peptide and Amino acids 
    • peptide is a short chain of amino acids
    • boost the healing process of wounds and scars
    • very limited studies
    • drmtlgy Advanced Neck Cream -  can be used on whole face, very effective blend of ingredients
  • Soy
    • contains lipids, fatty acids, isoflavone, protease inhibitor
    • isoflavone controls free radicals and helps with oxidative stressors
    • protease inhibitor inhibits pigment movement
    • increase Hyaluronic Acid in skin - improve texture and dullness
    • increase collagen
    • contains plant estrogen - good for post menopausal aging, avoid if history of breast cancer
    • Sana Soy Milk 6 in 1 moisturizing gel, Sana Soy Milk Moisture Cream, Sana soy milk whitening cream (licorice, arbutin), Sana soy milk wrinkle cream (ceramides, retinol, licorice)

  • Licorice extract
    • reduce redness, helps melasma - small trials
    • distribute melanin, evens out tone/brightens
    • PROcure Rosacare Hydrogel + Licorice Extract
    • It'S SKIN Power 10 Formula LI Effector Ampoule Serum

  • Ginkgo biloba, yeast, rice bran, ginseng, green tea

  • Pathenol Vitamin B5
    • treat  dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin and minor skin irritations (such as diaper rash, skin burns from radiation therapy)
    • good for nails
    • in beef, milk, egg, etc

  • zinc oxide, white petrolatum  are used mostly to protect the skin against irritation


Hyperpigmentation

  • Hydroquinone
    • reversible depigmentation
    • Use 2 months, then 1 month off; banned in many countries
    • Best to use after GA
    • Can be alternated with Retinoid
    • Well studied whitening cream

  • Arbutin
    • Reversible inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme that produces pigment
    • Natural occurring form of hydroquinone, not as potent  
    • found in leaves of pear trees and bearberry plant
    • higher concentration cause rebound post inflammatory hyperpigmentation through irritation
    • needs aggressive sun protection
    • Rohto Mentholatum - Hada Labo Shirojyun Whitening Lotion (oil free)/milk/serum/cream - w/ Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ( lipid soluble vit C)

  • Azelaic acid
    • antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties- used to treat acne and rosacea. 
    • 15-20%  not available otc
      • also prevents melanin synthesis, the ability of your skin to produce pigments that can vary your skin’s tone
      • encourages cell turnover
      • More research is needed to see how effective it can be
    • good for white spots also
    • Does not affect sun sensitivity
    • Milder - works more gently and slowly than alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid.
    • Paula's Choice Azelaic acid https://bit.ly/34NXx2b
    • The Ordinary Azelaic acid suspension https://bit.ly/32LJ4lN


  • Kojic Acid
    • chelation agent produced by several species of fungi
    • used to treat melasma
    • La Roche Posay mela-D https://bit.ly/3284TwH

Retain

Antioxidant

    • Ubiquinone
      • helps prevent UV damage, does not heal
      • not effective mixed with sunscreen, not very stable
      • twice a day , after cleansing, apply on damp skin and let dry
      • Inkey with Squalene, Dimethicone, Soy

    • Squalane 
      • has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce redness and swelling
      • squalene must be hydrogenated into stable squalane (with an “a”) for use
      • mimics your skin’s natural oils, fight skin damage and free radicals
      • safe for all skin types. excellent alternative if other oils are too heavy or greasy for your skin. 
      • Despite being an oil, it’s lightweight and noncomedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores.
    • Green tea, grape, resveratrol, beta glucan, licorice, vitamin E, quercetin, nonfragrant plant oil


Humectants

Dehydrated skin lacks water (usually caused by diet or environmental factors). You will need to rehydrate it with ingredients that help it hold on to water molecules. Dry skin lacks oil because it produces less sebum, meaning it doesn't have enough fatty lipids to retain its protective barrier. You will need to replenish your skin with products rich in oils and ceramides. "Dry skin" is an actual skin type, while "dehydrated skin" is a temporary condition anyone can experience – even those with oily skin. Dry skin will look flaky or patchy and often has redness, while dehydrated skin will feel tight and have a dull appearance.
    • Hyaluronic acid
      • Helps in 'Appearance' - no permanent affect
      • Synthetic formulations have high molecular size and do not penetrate skin
      • Avoid sodium hyaluronate
      • Can pull moisture FROM skin - apply on wet face, not for winter/dry climate
      • L'Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid   Serum, for the night before the party!

    • Glycerin
    • Peptides and amino acids
    • Aloe vera, Honey, Seaweed, Propylene glycol, Sugar alcohols like xylitol and sorbitol, Molasses
    • rice ferment extract
    • https://incidecoder.com/

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